Sunday, August 8, 2010

A few things I know for sure...

Hospitality and kindness are deep-rooted customs in Senegal. As my host sister, Awa, would say during our evening talks, "c'est l'habitude des Senegalaises!." Kaolack is not considered a paradise for most visitors but it shelters the most welcoming families and friends. Though it may seem forceful at first, every Senegalese's command to eat (i.e. "cae lekk" or "viens, mange") represents an honest encouragement to share a meal and share a part of their day. Random people that we met on the street would usually reply to the Asalaamaalekum greeting and ask "na nga def? naka wa ker ge?." We would usually hear a chuckle here and there as they called us Toubabs (wolof term for foreigners) and commented on our limited knowledge of Wolof. It may be through fortune, good vibes or that ever-present aura of hospitality that has allowed us to travel and meet the most genuine people.

Our travels have been blessed by this hospitality. Seydou, one of our co-workers, lived in Mbour before moving to Kaolack and he decided to accompany us to his native town to introduce us to his family and friends.



His generosity led us to our next encounter with Jakob, a small business owner in Saly who helped us find lodging in this expensive beach town and introduced us to the best rice, onion sauce and fish that I've tasted (aka yassa yuen). In good company, we had an incredible soccer match on the beach and learned how to make attaya (senegalese tea). More than just tea, attaya is an art form that promotes the sharing nature of the Senegalese and the respect for life, love, and death.



This welcoming attitude was ever-present in the streets of Dakar as well. During our visit to the capital, we stayed at Chez Dou Dou's, a small renovated lodging in Village N'Gor. As we packed our bags for the first day's adventures, Dou Dou packed his backpack as well, took us to meet his family, and introduced us to Omar, a restaurant owner in N'Gor Island. These two gentlemen had responsibilities and other commitments during the time that we were in town but they made sure that we felt welcomed.



Hospitality usually begins with a big smile. As Mama, the clinic's midwife, would also say, "c'est l'habitude des Senegalaises". Kindness is the door to good fortune, good company, and richer experiences. This last photo may not be the best snapshot but it has been taken after one of the richest conversations about Senegalese hospitality and generosity.